Day 4: A Rainy Day

It was a cloudy day in London Town. I had a nice breakfast of bacon & eggs, I must remind myself to always eat the masher first, if it's allowed to get cold it just tastes like congealed fat. I asked for a cappuccino thinking I'd get a dinky little cup and it was a huge cup with a pretty chocolate design.

I sat in the back with my back to the wall so I could watch everyone walk in, it's the most secure way to make sure no one snatches anything from you or sneaks up on you.

From breakfast to catching the trains, it all seemed good. I found the right train and managed to get out the right station. Then the directions stop. All I had to go on was to walk to Shakespeare's Globe theater. But apart from one sign with an arrow telling me which exit to take to go to the Globe, there were no other direction.

So I asked a couple of construction workers, I don't care, I'm just asking directions. He pointed out a street and told me to look for St Paul's Cathedral. No problem, it's Sunday and the bells were peeling! I followed the sound.

The little drizzle was now beginning to spit hard. I headed into a little alley with my back to the wall so it was only a turn of my head to see if anyone was coming. I needed to check google maps, but it was being difficult and it couldn't find the Globe either. Then I realized that I was the one standing in an alley!

I had come out and saw a woman on the sidewalk about to pass me. 

Me: "Excuse me."

The woman stopped, turned and looked at me.

Me: "Do you know where the Globe Theater is at?"

She looked at me and shot back immediately "No I don't." And quickly walked off. I was walking in that direction so, I continued. She started running away from me!

I was a bit shocked, I wasn't doing anything threatening, I didn't touch her nor ask for money but she felt threatened by me. Oh well, it takes all kinds.

I stopped again and checked the maps and found that I had gone the wrong way. So I doubled back and as I was walking I smelled something divine, fresh baked goods. So I stopped and picked out a maple turnover and a big pretzel with melted cheese. But the cashier had never heard of The Globe!

I found the Millennial Bridge and spotted the Globe, looks just like how I imagined it. I would have been in greater awe if it were not a replica from 1994. Oh well, it's better than nothing.

Then since it was still raining and didn't look like it would stop and my tour took longer than I expected. I never made the changing of the guards. Instead I went to Harrods.

Beautiful building, but I wasn't impressed, I'm from Chicago, we had Marshall Fields, it's about the same and I just don't have the fascination with department stores that other people have. I thought, I'll have lunch at Harrods. But all I saw was the Cap'cino or some posh way of spelling cappuccino and they were serving Italian. I thought, you'll be in Italy in two weeks, don't spend your money now!

I ending up on the other side of the building, I thought Harrods had a food section. I competent forgot about Princess Diana's engagement ring. Oh well, rings aren't my thing.

But google maps said that the Royal Albert Hall was just walking distance away. It was a distance alright! By the time I reached Exhibition Road and turned, the crush of a Sunday crowd was quickly dissipated by the driving rain. But I kept working because I had not other reason not too. 

My glasses were useless, foggy up and drenched with rain. But I was stubborn, after already walking some time, how could I allow myself to miss a few more steps to reach my destination?

 The rain picked up and things got wet fast and cold. When I got to Albert hall, I was like a drowned cat hoisted by her neck.  I was so happy to finally find the bathrooms were like a single room and I tried my best to clean myself up a bit. The big mirror showed a crazy disheveled mess. No wonder the lady ran away from me!

The tour was too long for me to partake, but behind the cafe were seats up against the wall and I noticed there was free wifi. So I sat and checked my emails, while I ate my pasteries, dried out and enjoy a sweep respite of texting.

Next I went to Wimbledon, the hallowed grounds of champions. If you are a tennis fan, you must visit and take the tour. Our guide was Nick a very proper British gentleman, complete with Mac and tie. He also swung around his neck a Wimbledon umbrella.

He took us to court 1 and center court, as to be expected. But he also took us into the media center and into the players press room and various other locations that the general public would not have to chance to see. 

Afterwards, it was time to return & pack my bags for my early morning flight. But not before I stopped at an English pub and ordered my fish n chips, which I love anyways.

No one told me I was supposed to walk up to the bartender and place my order and pay. Then they bring your food out, you eat and leave. It was a bit odd for me. But I think the bartender was a bit surprised how fast I ate. I've got to learn to eat slower. Do you see how big the fish is? I placed my glasses as perspective. I ate it all because it was good!

The other day, lunching with my cousin was a 2hour lunch, they linger and talk. Oh well, I am a solo traveler.

Day 3: Lost in London

So I started my day waking up very late. I don't know why I set my alarm to go off after 10hrs of sleep. Maybe it was a Freudian slip. I ran out as fast as I could.

I thought after having done the Tube thing yesterday, I got a little cocky. I blithely ran down the platform to hop on the district line only to end up in the wrong direction and I should have been on the circle line.

So I had to double back and get on the right train. When I finished my tour of The Tower of London and Tower Bridge tour, I walked back to the tube and promptly got on the wrong train again.

I got off at the next stop, crossed the platform and went the other way. All that trouble just to see 221B Baker Street. Yes. It's an actual address but I didn't stand in line because after all, it's not like it's Sherlock's stuff. He was just a character in a book. A most imminent character nonetheless.

Then almost next door is the London Beatles Store. She loves you yeah yeah!

Then I turned around and head back to the Tube. When I did get on the right train to get me to the right station, an announcement told us that no westbound trains would stop at the station due to maintenance. So I walked from Covent Garden to Leicester station so I could catch the train and head back.

London doesn't put their street signs on posts, they put them on the walls of the buildings on the corner!

So Google was saying one thing, my eyes said another and it resulted in me actually being lost. I had no sense of north or south. I'm used to a grid system of city as most of the U.S. is planned. This whole ring thing gets me confused. 

So when in doubt, I just kept walking and when I suddenly saw the Hippodrome Casino, it was like a miracle to me! I actually recognized something!

Apart from the lost thing, I lingered at Westminster Abbey, shocked and surprised to look down and see Charles Darwin's name indicating he was buried there. Everyone who goes inside gets an audio tour aid and it was grand. 

Every hour on the hour, there is a moment of prayer where they specifically ask you to stop and give over to a moment of silence. I did and I wanted to trip the people who kept walking and talking. 

I enjoyed the Poet's corner and seeing Chaucer, W.H. Auden, George Eliot had her real name on her stone, immortalized was amazing. I got such a chill when I stood upon Robert Browning's stone. It was different from the others, it had a border or light colored stone and his name was in a square of a reddish marble. I only got the chills when I stood on his name and no other.

One of my favorite poems ever, was written by Robert Browning so in deep respect for his memory and maybe just to show that he has not been forgotten. I recited the poem and the chill went away.

All that is lost is not often forgotten.

Day 2 London Walking

Once you get used to the Tube, its very easy. I thought it was crowded before, today traveling in the tube around 5-6pm, rush hour on a Friday was not as bad as I thought. 

But I noticed more of the train announcements and all I have ringing in my head is "Please Mind the Gap". I looked down and it's like a full foot gap between the platform and the train's edge!

Today I ordered a breakfast baguette. Didn't realize that the little piece of fried potato that tasted like deep fried mash potatoes may just have been the mash to the bangers(sausage) that I had. So that's the traditional breakfast right?

We rode around the tube and if the running up and down the stairs doesn't kill me, the vertigo riding up the escalators will. 

Found Picadilly Circus, it didn't look like one. It was very crowded, but I saw no elephants or clowns, except me clowning around.

We ate at China town-of course, we are Asians. I'm sadly unimpressed with "Chinatowns" in cities not in China. Although there was a the random Peking duck hanging on a window.

Then we asked a woman in the tube who was there to explain things to people how we were to get to Buckingham Palace. She told us to go back up to Regent street and walk towards St James Park and walk up The Mall until we end up at the palace.

The flag was bravely waving in the breeze indicating her Majesty the Queen was there. The guards with the big hats were not there. But we did see some guard going through his paces.

The tourists are all standing in front of the big black gates and a few little girls ran up shrieking "maybe we'll see the Queen!". Their tiny voices full of joy. When it was time to leave, they all began to scream "bye Queen, bye bye Queen!" It was so cute.

We took the tube out to Westminster where as I walked up from the tube you can see from the bottom of the stairs the iconic Parliament building. 

Then as we walked toward Westminster Bridge, where everyone congregated at one corner, I realized we were literally in the shadow of Big Ben! It is an impressive sight! I think of all the movies and TV shows that showed it, when you see any icon of London, it's Big Ben and deservedly so. There is something just magnificent about that clock that I wanted to take pictures of every side!

I learned that it costs 50pence to pee in a public restroom. There's a guy who makes sure you pay it too! It was also a chain flush! 

When it rains in London, it  will rain in buckets then it stops, like someone turned off the spigot.

To do one load of wash took £6 and £3 to dry it at a self laundry place. £9 is equal to $13-14.

I can't afford London.

Day 1 London

Chicago to London was the shortest international flight I've ever taken. I'm used to the crazy 16-24hrs of flying into Asia.

But as much as the U.S. is moving to apps & no paper, Europe still has trees and they wanted to see one from me, which left me in an uncomfortable position of trying to get an email out to the customs agent to prove that I wasn't trying to stay for employment reasons. Any other reason would just be nuts.

Don't ever exchange currency at the airport, wait until you get to your hotel, settle in and find an inside ATM in the bank and withdraw, it's the cheapest way.

You can still hop on the London Underground by picking up an Oyster card at the train station using your credit card, assuming you have no foreign transaction fees.

The underground was really easy for me, clear station signs but make sure you know how to get to your hotel/hostel before you get on. Only the Piccadilly line goes to Heathrow. And yes the line's final station is Cockfosters. But the train announcer made it sound very respectable. Some train stations have multiple levels of platforms and some of the escalators are so steep, you can get vertigo.

I crossed the street a few times and only almost got hit just twice. Don't be cool and try to jaywalk, I can see it end badly. Especially when at the crosswalk the Brits kindly painted in BOLD white lettering, which way to look. I'm sorry for those who don't use the same alphabet nor read English.

To an American, coins are a mystery, I just hold out my handful of hands and show them to the cashier. 

When Brits say you're on the second floor, it usually means 4 flights of stairs and oddly enough the stairs are very steep. This is just from the 2nd floor!

I did get mistaken for a shop girl at Sainsbury market, an older gentlemen just walked up to me as I was reaching for a banana.

"How are the bananas today?"

"I'll find out soon enough."

"Good eh? Well pick me out two big ones, I need one for today and tomorrow."

So I got him bananas, he thanked me graciously and I felt I had done some civil service.

I had a few questions, on the tube you have to scan your card to get into the station platforms to get on your train and then when you exit you have to scan it again. I'm assuming I'm not getting charged twice yes?

Also, I noticed several smartly dressed women wearing the most lovely but ginormous wide brimmed hat that covers most of their face. I'm assuming the celebrities of England don't go by tube hiding in plain sight, so is it just a fashion trend or are they hiding from the ubiquitous CCTV?

I've been awake now for over 24hrs and I guess there's a part of me that still can't sleep because any moment now, I might run into Doctor Who. Although when I took this photo just outside Earls Court Station, I did get a pretty young blonde come up and ask for some money. I should have looked for Bad Wolf posters, was that you Rose?

The underground does not run 24/7 unlike the U.S. So my 640a flight will require me to spend £40(~U$D 75) for a taxi to Heathrow, which sadly is why I can only stay in London 4 days.

There's a large Filipino presence, but the food sadly, wasn't the same. I left quite a bit on the table. Perhaps it was my jet lag.

My eyes are crossing and the styrofoam mattress is calling my name. Good night.

Child Beggars

Today I read this post on slate:

http://www.slate.com/articles/double_x/doublex/2013/09/giving_money_to_child_beggars_don_t_do_it.html?wpsrc=fol_fb

In my travels through the U.S., I haven't seen child beggars. I've seen old people, teens, but not kids under 10 years old.

But when I travel internationally, I have seen it, in China, Thailand, Mexico, Jamaica and the Philippines. One thing I notice if you give any attention to any one of them, suddenly they swarm.

There were several memories that stuck with me. One was in the Philippines. I was standing at a counter waiting to pick up some medicine for my stomach. In the Philippines the pharmacy can be in a corner and just nothing but a counter top and you have to catch the cashier's attention so you can give her your script. There are no such thing as "taking a number".

I was standing waiting for them to process my order when I felt a tug at my t-shirt. It was a small boy about 5yo with his hand out. I looked down on him and in just the space of two blinks, suddenly I was surrounded. I made the mistake of giving the kid a bread roll and suddenly other kids came out. My cousin looked at me and sighed before she shooed the kids away. As she was doing that, a woman approached me with her hand out and she was holding a baby. I made the mistake of smiling at the baby, making it smile back at me. But having learnt my lesson, I didn't give anything more. I turned my head and in that quick turn, I saw the beggar woman punch her baby's leg until the baby shrieked in pain. I looked at her dead eyes in disbelief. I let my cousin lead me away. That baby's tears still haunt me.

The other time was in Bangkok. I was staying at Sukhumvit Soi 11, within walking distance of the red light Nana "entertainment" area. So I had gotten used to some surprising scenes. 

At night the sidewalks along Sukhumvit explodes with rows and rows of tables and wares. From pirated DVDs to monkey & elephant trinkets, scarves and yes even samurai sword sets for $50. I once passed by a table full of what looked like child pornography. I watch a man looking though them and said loudly "That's disgusting!" Then under my breath "pervert." 

Then one night, as I came strolling home from dinner, it was around 10p. I saw a 6yo girl watching over her 2yo sister, settling her in a box so she could go and beg. I watched her silently, her face angelic as she tucked her sister in the box with some toys and a bottle. But as she tended to her baby sister the look on her face was that of a much older being.

As she prepped for her begging, she got an intense look on her face that was unforgiving, determined, relentless and thoroughly cold. When a man appeared, her face metamorphosed into an innocent with big startling eyes of grief and hunger. Then when she got her money, she counted out her coins with the intensity of a banker. When I think of her, my heart still bleeds. I don't know what I could have done. I still don't know what to do to help them.

So I go on my merry way, far removed from their suffering and I wish I knew what to do. 

Road Trip Rules

It's spring break time. With the cheap gas and the optimistic economy, there are a lot more families hitting the road. I should know, it felt like they were all in front of me this year.

Usually, if spring break traffic is bad, summer traffic will be even worse. Combine it with construction fever and so many people on the road that normally aren't used to high way traffic who inevitably cause accidents, a ten hour trip took 18 hours!

So here is a list of helpful tips that I know from personal experience.

1) Safety is always first. You have to use your mirrors-you can't just switch lanes. Someone, usually a smaller vehicle has to give way, if they aren't careful, it's called a multi-car accident.

There was also a lot of gigantic RVs. I've been a road warrior for most of my life and I'm used to the big tractor trailers, the 18 wheelers, I even know the signals and road etiquettes that the driver exchange. But this year, the RVs outnumbered the trucks!

I'm not one of those people afraid of an 18wheeler driving next to me, they are for the most part, seasoned drivers. But RV drivers aren't used to driving with such a big vehicle and make the mistake of thinking they can drive it like a normal sized car.

2) Just because you are lost doesn't mean drive on your brakes with your turn signal on. Make sure you use your GPS and be ready to hit "detour". In all the years ice traveled the route down to Florida, to the Keys, I have never used my detour button so many times.

But definitely don't be the jerk who hangs up traffic because they don't know where they are going. Also, DO NOT back up on the off ramp to get back into traffic because you changed your mind! Most exits also have entrances. 

3) Use your turn signals, to switch lanes, to take turns, even if there isn't anyone behind you. On highways, someone can come up fast and you won't even know it. If you aren't signaling, you can cause an accident. Regardless of who's fault it is, someone could get hurt or even killed.

4) Headlight can be used for more than night driving. There are daylight running lights that are supposed to make your vehicle easier to spot. There is also road etiquettes with headlights. 

If someone coming towards you flashes their light at you and then turn off the headlights, they are telling you that they passed a cop car waiting on the side waiting to catch someone. You say thank you by flashing them back. Then when you pass the cop, you return the favor by flashing others, for a while at least.

At night, when you pass a truck, they turn off their lights to let you know you can come back into the lane. This was a tried and true practice, but I didn't notice it this year.

So when you want to let someone in, it used to be you turn off your lights to them to signal them to come in. Nowadays, most people don't know the etiquette and end up sitting there and get mad that no one is letting them in.

5) Gas stations really don't make their money on gas, they make it on the snacks and drinks they sell. So when you need to use their bathroom, buy something. Even if it's just a pack of gum. It's the nice thing to do. After all, some places will post that the rest rooms are only for their customers, translation: buy something.

6) One of the single biggest contributor to accidents(even more than idiot drivers) is fatigue. If you find your mind drifting, pull over at the next exit or rest area. Sometimes it just takes taking a few minutes of stretching your legs and getting a lungful of deep breathes that can revive you. DO NOT DRIVE SLEEPY.

7) Don't drive up on another driver then sit on their blind spot. Be respectful of another driver's space. If you sit on their blind spot, they may not notice that you are there.

8) Even in a multi lane highway, unless it is marked as a HOV (high occupation vehicle) lane, the left lane is always just for passing. When you pass someone, return to the right lane. As fast as you think you are going, there is always someone faster than you. Don't sit on the left lane and hold up faster drivers.

9) A "wolf pack" is when a group of drivers intentionally drive over an above the speed limit. The idea being that if there are multiple cars all speeding, a single cop car can only catch one car. That's not true, the cops can always call for back up. But if you are not a part of the wolf pack, just get out of their way. No one elected you traffic officer. Don't think you can stop them by sitting on the left lane and driving the speed limit. You'll just end up with angry drivers and probably get flipped off. Depending on where you are driving, you could get shot, not even joking.

10) On small country roads, speed limits can go from 55mph to 30mph in less than a 1000yards, pay attention and take your foot off the gas first before you stomp on your brakes. Highways can differ from 55 to 65 to 70mph. Just be careful because the cops are out there and the fines can be steep.

Otherwise, a road trip is great fun, especially with good music and great conversations. You can also enjoy audio books, I get very engaged with the story and if it weren't for the audio books I had, I would not have made the 18hours of straight driving with the insane traffic and accident delays. 

Have fun and safe travels!

Glen Arbor, Michigan

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore has long been considered one of the best beaches in the US. With its sweeping sand perched on a curve of the Western Michigan shore, it is a challenging hike and the miles of shifting sand a great contrast to the soft serene waves of Lake Michigan.

There is campgrounds in the dunes, but since I visited there in late September, I was looking for fall weather, I didn't want to battle any cold weather.

So I looked for a hotel or a B&B in the nearest town, Glen Arbor. I found an owner at The Homestead resort who was renting out their condo. It had a fireplace, patio and was mere steps away from Lake Michigan.

I had a long weekend, spur of the moment trip, but the weather was agreeable with mostly bright sunshine with one day of rain. 

Since Glen Arbor was a sleepy little coastal town, I thought I would spend time just sitting around with a book. Instead I found the Crystal River Outfitters where I could rent bikes and various water sports paraphernalia. 

I had stopped by since the Homestead was a bit north of the city proper and made arrangements for them to drop off a bike and helmet for me at my condo. Then when I was ready, I would just need to call them to pick up the bike when I was done with it. 

It was a semi cloudy day, but it stayed dry and the colors were wonderful. I always appreciate staying active when there are new byways for me to wander.

I circled the main streets of Glen Arbor in less than 5minutes. There's one corner that had the local grocers and the few restaurants in the area that catered to visitors.

What I was more enamored with was the country roads that wound around the Leelanau Peninsula. There are no big expressways here, it's all twisting and turning country roads. There are also several larger inland lakes that dot the area. Some times I'd make a turn and it felt like I was by the seashore, all I was missing was the salty air. 

On one rainy day I had, I took my car up M22 to the Leelanau State Park and went to the very end to see the Grand Traverse Light House. 

The light house is beautifully kept. It participates in the national park program that allows visitors the ability to stay in the light house's living quarters and do some maintenance work. The gentlemen who was taking the entrance fees for the lighthouse was staying there that week before he and his girlfriend headed south for the winter. His girlfriend tended the gift shop. 

I enjoyed the way they had restored the lighthouse back to they way it was back in the 1920s. I was fascinated by the furniture and their appliances back in the day. 

Visitors were allowed to climb up to the top where the giant lamp used to be that lighted the lighthouse. It was a very tight spiral staircase that had me bumping my head on the ceiling. Sadly it was a grey raining day and a rain storm was descending, but it did explain why they built the lighthouse there. The water churned dangerously and I could understand how ships might have met tragic ends had the lighthouse not been there to warn them of the dangers.

I may not have heard of Glen Arbor before since most people visit Traverse City. But obviously enough people knew about it since I did end up paying $10 for an 'artisanal' Reuben sandwich. 

I did enjoy the quiet moments at the condo, meals on the patio and gentle sunsets. I would come back in a heartbeat. Fall was off season so the condo was very reasonable, the colors were brilliant but the tall waving acorn trees drilled my car with dents as it shed its acorns like bullets on top of unwitting visitors. I may have gotten a dent on my head.

So if you're looking for a serene and slow paced area to visit. I would suggest you look at Glen Arbor.